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IEW SYSTEM OF DRAFTIM 



DIRECT FROM THE MEASUREMENT TAKEN WITH A TAPE MEASURE, 



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FOR ALL THE VARIOUS FORMS OF THE HUMAN BODY, 



Simplified by a Scale on Double Shoulder Measure. 



TO BE LEARNED WITHOUT AN INSTRUCTOR. 



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CUTTER, WITH JAMES E. SADDEN & CO., 755 BROADWAY. 



ifconb detrition. 



NEW YORK: 

THOMAS HOLMAN, PRINTER, CORNER OF CENTRE AND WHITE STREETS. 






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EM OF DKAFTIM 



DIRECT FROM THE MEASUREMENT TAKEN WITH A TAPE MEASURE, 



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FOR ALL THE VARIOUS FORMS OF THE HUMAN BODY, 



Simplified by a Scale on Double Shoulder Measure. 



TO BE LEARNED WITHOUT AN INSTRUCTOR. 




m 

CUTTER, WITH JA3IES E. MADDEN & CO., 755 BROADWAY. 



5 £ 1 ix ir (SbitioiT. 




1879. 



NEW YORK: 
THOMAS HOLMAN, PRINTER, CORNER OF CENTRE AND WHITE STREETS. 



18 67. 



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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by 

' L. PHYLIKY, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the 
Southern District of New York. 




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MEASURE. 

A measure taken on a coat more or less wadded, or 
which does not fit, never produces a satisfactory result ; in 
order to be correct, the measure should be taken on the 
vest. It is an error and prejudice to suppose that it is 
more difficult to measure without the coat. You will find 
an undoubted advantage in this system, and great facility 
in determining the exact form of the body, which is im- 
possible when measured over the coat ; let the operator 
be ever so talented. 

The measure ought to be taken with ease and dispatch, 
and it has a bad appearance to be moving around your 
customer ; placing yourself behind him, you can do all the 
measurement without change of position. It is of great 
importance that your customer should not assume a forced 
or unnatural position ; to avoid this difficulty, address him 
on some subject to attract his attention. Be also very 
careful, in measuring, to place the measure close to the 
body, neither tight, loose, nor crooked. Apply the measure 
around the arm with your finger, in order to bring the 
looseness of the shirt close to the body ; take all of the 
same tightness, and those from the socket bone, without 
departing from it. 

1. Breast measure, 30 inches. Over the largest part of 
the chest, close to the arms, and over the shoulder-blade. 
While this measure is being taken, some expand the chest; 
to prevent this, make them speak. 

2. Waist measure, 26 inches. By the application of the 
measure around the hollow of the waist, holding it with 
your left hand, you can easily determine the length of 
waist, according to fashion or taste, and make a dot ; it 
would also be well to make one on each hip. 

3. Hip measure, 27£ inches. Passing over the dot or 
dots which are calculated to mark the length of the waist. 

4. Seat measure (to be taken easy,) 31 inches. Round 
the body, on the largest part of the seat. 

5. Length of waist, 15£ inches. From the socket bo'ne 
down to the dot. 

6. Total length, 31 inches. Take the knee-joint for 
guide, and make according to fashion or taste, above or 
below. 



At least four of the above measures are taken by every 
one, and can be taken before or after the special system 
measurement, and with or without a coat on ; but by tak- 
ing them before, and without a coat on, you have the 
advantage, if your customer has assumed an unnatural 
position, that he will retake a natural one while they are 
being taken. 

7. Adjustment, 6 inches. See that the vest is properly 
adjusted, and make a dot in the hollow of the waist, per- 
pendicularly with the front of the shoulder bone (which is 
at the fore-arm when falling naturally), and measure from 
the centre of the back to the dot ; or, if you have any diffi- 
culty in finding the centre of the back, make a dot on each 
side, measure from one dot to the other, and take the half 
of the measurement. 

8. Back balance, 16£ inches. Passing over the 
shoulder-blade, on the most direct line down to the 
dot. 

9. Front balance, 17 inches. Passing by the front 
of the arm down to the dot. 

10. Length of sleeve, 26 inches. Without moving 
the measure, down to the wrist. This mode of 
measuring the sleeve is the most reliable that I have 
experienced. 

11. Drop of shoulder, 20 inches. Passing round 
the arm over the shoulder-joint on the most direct 
line to the extreme edge of the tape, which passes in 
front of the shoulder bone. 

12. Depth of scye, 21| inches. Up to the starting- 
point (socket bone). See that your measure be placed 
in good order. 

13. Double shoulder, 42 inches. Throw the measure 
over the other shoulder, round the arm, joining it at the 
back in the form of a cross. When, in extreme cases, the 
tape measure is too short to take the double shoulder 
measure, take it singly, starting from the centre of the 
back round the arm, returning to the starting-point. 
Always take this measure double when possible, for it is 
the most correct, excepting, however, when the body is 
one-sided, all measures should be taken on both sides. 

(I am obliged to take a small measure, that the model 
drafted from it might be placed in the book, but all sizes 
are to be drafted in the same manner.) 



COATS. 



TRACING. 

In order to learn this system readily and easily, do not 
■waste your time in examining the diagrams. Commence 
to draft at once, and in order, as per following instruc- 
tions : 

1. Draw the back and top lines ; establish on the latter 
half of the breast measure, 15 inches from the back line to 
A, and from A to the front line one-sixteenth of the 
breast measure. 

2. Double shoulder measure, 42 inches. Place the scale, 
as on the full-size diagram, 42 on the back line, the cor- 
responding number 42 for line B, and the end for the 
central line. 

Line C in the centre, between line B and central line. 

Line D, same distance from line B that there is from 
line B to central line, which will place it from the back 
line the same as from C to B. To obtain it easily and 
correctly, place the end of the scale on line B, and take 
42 again for line D. 

3. Front balance, 17 inches. Establish the waist line 
(on the central line) 17 inches from the top line, including 
the top of the back, or, in other words, 17 inches from the 
top line less the distance there is from line D to the back 
line. 

4. Adjustment, 6 inches. Establish a point, E, on the 
■waist line, 6 inches from the central line ; also, a point, F, 
which is from the central line, the third part of the dis- 
tance that there is from E to the back line. 

5. Waist measure, 26 inches. Take the half (13 inches), 
from E to G, or, if you please, from E to the central line 
6 inches, continuing to the front, 13 inches. If it comes 
inside the front line make a Y for the difference. (See 
Fig. 2.) Increase outside according to measure, as Fig. 3. 

6. Back balance, 16J inches. From F to the top of the 
back (see Fig. 1), square it up to line D. 

Establish the point H (on the central line), which is 
from the top line the half of the distance there is from A 
to B (on the top line); that is to say, let it be 9 inches 
from A to B, then make the point H 4£ inches from the 
top line. This point H is to locate the neck shoulder 
point, which is governed by the top of the back, placing 
the square as on Figs. 2 and 3. 

7. Depth of scye (or arm-hole), 21£ inches. Take the 
half, 10| inches, from the top of the back down to line C, 
and make a dot (see Fig. 1), then the other half from the 
neck shoulder point (top line), including the top of the 
back, and make another dot. (See Fig. 1.) Take the 
centre for line J, if they do not come together. 



Line K, obliquely from the junction of the central line 
and line J, to the top of the back line and line D. 
Line L, square on the junction of lines C and K. 

8. Drop of shoulder, 20 inches. The star is the point 
to sweep the shoulder from ; its distance from the central 
line is the difference there is from the drop of shoulder, 
20 inches, to the depth of scye, 21^ inches, which is 1| 
inches. 

From A to A one-thirty-second and one-sixteenth of the 
breast measure (for base). 

These are all the points for whatever the style or 
fashion you need to make according to taste ; but it de- ■ 
pends on the talent of the cutter to make such kind of 
coats, tight or loose, with grace and elegance and Vair 
distingue required by the art. 

Frock, Dress Coat, or any other kind of Fitting 
Coat. — Length of waist, say 15| inches from the top of 
the back down to the lower waist line. (Many cutters give 
the spring for the lower waist by mere guess, which is, 
however, better than a bad measurement.) 

Hip, 27^ inches. ..Take the half, 13| inches, from the 
front to M, on the lower waist line. Shape the back 
according to taste, cut it out and place it as in Fig. 2, 
so as to have the correct back balance, 16^ inches from 
the junction of the central and waist lines to the top of 
the back ; and 6 inches from the central line to the back 
(waist) when adjusted. (See Fig. 2.) 

It must be observed that the point F is of do more use, it had been 
established to find the hight of the back, providing for the surplus 
which is between the back and the side-body, or in other words for a 
sack ; but fitting the back with the side-body, the measure is to 
be used as it has been taken, from the socket bone to the top of the 
hip, perpendicularly with the front of the shoulder bone, which is the 
central line. 

Shape the side seam as for short waist, extending to the 
full length of the back. Spread the back to point M, as 
in full-size diagram, and shape for the lower waist in the 
centre, which gives half of the spring needed, the other 
half in the side-body seam. When the three pieces are 
cut, place them together to ascertain if it is correct to the 
measure. For close-fitting coats it can be rather smaller 
and have it stretched. 

Shaping the forepart, it can be perceived that the 
shoulder is dropped from the top line, and shaped above, 
near the neck, for the value of two seams. 

The junction of the front line and line J is the base to 
shape the front (without lapel) ; the lower part according 
to waist measure. 

Skirts.— Frock coats, front to be parallel with front 
line, and the back with line D, down to about the seat, for 
all kinds of coats, including Dress-coats. (See Fig. 4.) 



COATS. 



Sleeves. — All cutters are aware of the difficulties en- 
countered in the hanging of sleeves. I have overcome 
these difficulties, by establishing a fixed point for the fore- 
arm seam, in the centre, between lines J and L, and the 
back seam in the centre of the back scye on the line, 
and cutting them as the figure. Measure the upper part 
of the arm-hole from one notch to the other, say 7 inches, 
which makes the width of the sleeve from to 0. 

From to X (both) same as the back scye (on the line). 
(See the figure.) 

The horizontal lines are also from the back (or rather 
the depth of scye). From 1 to 2, half of the back scye. 
Down to 3, same as from the centre of the back scye to 
line J. (See the figure.) 

Length of sleeves, 26 inches. From the top line (on cen- 
tral line) to the notch, including the top of the back, then 
from P to 8, 26 inches. 

Make a line from 8 to 3, square the bottom from that 
line ; also, for the elbow, from the centre, between 3 and 8. 

Take in consideration broad shoulders, and back ex- 
ceeding the base as Fig. 1. About half of the difference 
should be taken off the sleeves. 



SACK. 

Fig. 1. — -The dotted lines are to show that the seams can 
be removed more or less, according to fashion or taste, also 
the increase of the back from its base, which is line B. 
In cutting the back shoulder seam round (as on the figure), 
and about half an inch longer than the back shoulder 
seam, drawing it in making, it will be of the shape of the 
forepart shoulder seam when finished, and will fit the 
back part of the arms very nicely. The size of the lower 
part is generally right, as on the figure, but it is better to 
apply the seat measure, making a line about 9 inches 
below the waist line, establishing on that line a point N, 
one-fourth of the waist measure from the central line : 
that is to say, the waist measure being 26 inches, take the 
quarter of it, 6|- inches from the central line to N, then 
from the point N to 0, the half of the seat measure, 15| 
inches ; then you have a sure guide, from which you 
should not depart but for increase, according to fashion 
or taste ; if cut just on the measure, it would be rather too 
close fitting around the seat, allowing about 2 inches will 
make it easy, still more will make it loose. The seat 
measure can also be used advantageously for any kind of 
coat with close-fitting skirt. 

Overcoats can be cut from the same measurement, in- 
creasing according to the thickness of the goods and 
lining, taking in consideration the thickness of the coat 
which it is to go over. However, 3 inches of increase is 
a good medium on breast, waist, and double shoulders ; 2 
on depth of scye, 1| on drop of shoulders, three-quarters 
on adjustment, and three-eighths on the back balance only. 



COAT ON BREAST MEASURE. 

All the old systems have been based on the breast 
measure, but have given so much trouble, even to the 
most talented, that they are used in custom trade but 
by very few, except for sample coats measure sent from 
abroad, or measure taken by some one else, of which you 
do not understand but the breast measure. Therefore I 
will give the proportions to cut on breast measure, based 
for a good medium proportion, and not on imaginary 
forms, which can be used advantageously for the above 
purposes. It would be beneficial, however, to be well 
acquainted with it, in order to judge if the variation ob- 
tained by measurement come to your expectation. 

All the perpendicular lines to be obtained the same as 
for coat on measurement, except, instead of using the double 
shoulder measure scale, take the breast measure scale. 

Line J to be the same distance from the top line as line 
C is from the back line. 

The top of the back, half of its width from the top line ; 
that is to say, the top of the back to be from the top line, 
the half of the distance which is from line D to the back 
line. 

Lines K and L same as for coat on measurement. 

The neck shoulder point and the star to be from the 
central line, the third part that there is from the central 
line to A. 

The waist line, half of the breast measure, from the top 
line. 

Take line D for guide to establish the width of the lower 
part of the back, and line B for the side seam (short waist) 
and spring it off for long waist ; then you can remove 
the seams in giving to one what you take from the other. 

VARIATIONS OBTAINED BY MEASUREMENT. 

Figs. 2 and 3 (on the same breast measure), are to show 
the variations obtained by measurement without any 
change of the applications. They are not imaginary, but 
are the exact reproduction of models which have been 
used without being subject to any change or alterations. 

Measures of the above figures taken from the measure 
book : 

Fig. 2. Fig. 3. 

413 463 

J. J. S. Jas. A. H. 

Breast 40 .... 40 

Waist 29 .... 41 

Hip ' 311 .... 42 

Length of waist 19 .... 19| 

Adjustment 1j •••• 8j 

Back balance 20^ .... 21J 

Front balance ....22 20J 

Drop of shoulders 26 .... 26f 

(Extra over the bone) 27 — 

Depth of scye 27 29 

Double shoulders 54 57-| 



6 



COATS. 



IMPORTANT REMARKS. 

1. The shaded places are to be stretched, particularly 
the neck gorge and scye, the others do not need to be so 
much and are not so important, but will be more graceful. 
Prominent shoulders need a great deal more, which can 
be ascertained by taking an extra measure next that of 
the drop of shoulder, and on the same plan, but over the 
most prominent part of the shoulder bone ; the surplus 
should be the amount of stretching. In extreme cases, the 
surplus may be more than it can be stretched, then cut it 
as the dotted lines of Fig. 2, and stretch also the shoulder 
scam still more, so as to bring it to its right shape. 

Stretching and V can be avoided wholly or partly by 
cutting the shoulders straighter and longer, more or less, 
as the dotted lines of Fig. 4, and have them well padded ; 
work of this kind is heavy, but may suit some classes of 
trade, and may be the safest if you are not very sure of the 
ability of your hands. Uniforms, however, could not be 
graceful otherwise. 

2. When the distance of the point E from the back 
line is more than the distance which there is from line B 
to line D, the surplus is to be taken off obliquely as Fig. 
2, that is to say, from E to the back it could not be more 
than it is from line B to line D. The same quantity 
which is taken off on line J by the oblique line is to be 
added in front ; and at the back scye, about the half to 
exceed line B. (See Fig. 2.) 

On Fig. 3 the front is also shaped outside of the fitting 
point (or rather the formation), but it is for filling up the 
hollow occasioned by large abdomen. Broad shoulders 
for such shapes, as Fig. 3, would not produce a good result. 

3. On extreme high shoulders it would be beneficial to 
move the shoulders forward half of the difference from 
good proportions (see coat on breast measure) ; that is to 
say, if for good proportions the star should be 2 inches 
from the central line, and your measurement places it at 1 
inch, then move the shoulder forward a half-inch from the 
point established by the application of the square. (See 
Fig. 2.) 



A FEW WORDS ON ALTERATIONS. 

There are a great number of coats which have been 
wounded by cutting or making, and killed by alterations. 
In order to prevent this it is of the greatest importance 
to know the origin of this mis-fit ; for the alteration is 
very seldom to be done where it shows, and I call your 
attention in some cases, which brings a good many : Lin- 
ings too tight or not fitting the outside, collar too short, 
scye or neck not stretched as it should be ; too tight at 
the lower waist, either from the cut or the make. All 
these cases can bring wrinkles and tightness at the arm- 
holes ; it can possibly, in some, have a tolerable appear- 
ance, and be only tight at the arm-holes ; if you cut some 
off without succeeding to make it go, either by being too 
tight yet, or the appearance of new wrinkles, then the 
alterations begin ; and after all your trouble, the coat is 
too small at the chest, too short at the waist— killed ! 

A case which also gives trouble to many, is the 
shoulder dropped too much, which makes it also tight at 
the arm-holes, although the coat having a loose appear- 
ance and opening at the fronts ; the right alteration is to 
let out at shoulder-drop ; any other might kill the coat. 
It is always dangerous to cut from the scye, for it could 
very seldom be the case in a coat cut with principle. 

By leaving an outlet on the shoulder, you can always 
save a coat ; and if there comes a case you do not under- 
stand, then the best is to measure again, and by compar- 
ing it with the first, you will very likely (if you under- 
stand this system) find your error and see that a correct 
measure must fit, even if cut by some one else. 



Notice. — If the cutters had a society, where all systems should be 
admitted and discussed openly, they would overcome all difficulties, 
obtain great perfection, save themselves a great deal of trouble, the 
art would be improved, and the trade would be benefited by it. 



SATIN-WOOD SQUARE, with Scales and all accommodations to Draft by 

(for Subscribers only) $3 00 

BELT to place round the Waist, with Slide to locate the point for 

Balances ■ $2 00 

(I do not use it, but it is found very convenient by some.) 



/ 



// 



£ 



I 



Fig. 5. — Drafting of vest is very similar to the coat, and 
from the same measurement adding the opening from the 
socket bone down to the buttoning up, and length. 

1. Breast measure, 30 inches. Back line, top line, point 
A, and front line, same as for coat. 

2. Double shoulder measure, 42 inches. The central 
line to be from the back line, one-fourth of the double 
shoulder measure. 

3. Front balance, 17 inches. Establish the waist line, 
same as for coat. Point E, one-thirty-second of the breast 
measure from the back line. 

4. Adjustment, 6 inches from E to F. 

5. Half of the waist measure, 13 inches from the central 
line to the front, including the adjustment ; if it comes in- 
side the front line, the best is to male a V for the differ- 
ence, as Fig. 7. Increase outside of the front line accord- 
ing to measure, but do not depart from the central line. 

6. Back balance, 16| inches. From F to the top of the 
back (as coat). 

The point H from the top line, the fourth of the distance 
that there is from the back to the front line. The neck 
shoulder point same as for coat, with the application of the 
square. 

Line C, the eighth of the breast measure from the neck 
shoulder point. 

7. Depth of scye, 21"£ inches. Take the half, 10 j inches, 
from the neck shoulder point down to line C, including the 
top of the back, and make a dot (as coat). If the back 



comes lower than the top line, make line J half of tho 
difference lower; if it comes higher, it is the contrary. 

Line D, one-sixteenth of the breast measure from back 
line. 

Point K, one-sixteenth of the breast measure from line J. 

Drop of shoulder 1|- inches (from 20 to 21| inches) from 
the top line down to L. 

Shape it as the figure ; the back exceeding by about one 
thirty-second of the breast measure, the point F. Putting 
a puff in shoulders, or stretching, will clear the wrinkles 
which very often make their appearance in the shoulders. 

The mode which I am using, with success, is to put a puffin 
the loiggan, and stretch the outside to fit it ; or, instead of a 
puff, cut a fish (in wiggan), as in Fig. 7. To have it done 
plain, cut shoulders narrower, as Fig. 6. 

Vest on Breast Measure. — Fig. 6. — From the front 
line to line one-fourth, and one-thirty-second of the breast 
measure ; or the half and one-sixteenth for the whole, as 
Fig. 5. 

The neck shoulder point one-eighth of the breast measure 
from line C, and the central line one-sixteenth. 

Line J one-third of the breast measure from the top line, 
including the top of the back. 

The top of the back on top line. 

Point E same as on measurement ; point F not needed. 
Take line C for guide to shape the back. 

Drop op Shoulder. — Make a line from the neck shoul- 
der point, down to the junction of front and line J, and 
square the drop of shoulder from it. Make a line on the 
junction of the drop and line 0, and drop the back on it. 
(See the figure.); 



MEASURE. 

1. Waist, say 30 inches. 

2. Seat, around the largest part, 36 inches. 

3. Side length, from the top of hip (to the knee, 



for 



close fitting, 23 inches) down to the bottom, 40 inches. 

4. Inside length (close to the fork), 31 inches. 

5. Spring, 30^ inches from the top of hip around the 
fork, passing over the seat, going up to the starting point. 
This measure, properly taken, is of great importance, and 
without it you can never be sure of a good fit. It gives 
spring to the back, according to the form. If it has not 
enough spring, the pants draw at every move, are uncom- 
fortable, and seem too short ; if too much spring, they bag 
behind, wrinkle inside the legs, and look too long at the 
heel. 

Thigh to be measured on both sides ; the difference 
should be for the dress (if the measurement is correct). 

The above measures to be taken smooth, neither tight 
or loose, without reference to fashions. Knee, calf, and 
bottom according to fashion or taste, taking in considera- 
tion the size of the feet for the latter. 



TRACING. 



Fig. 8. — Side length, 40 inches from top to bottom. 

Inside length, 31 inches from bottom to fork line. 

Knee, 23 inches from top to knee line. 

Seat measure, 36 inches. From A to B, one-fourth of the 
seat measure and the central line between. From B to 
(both) one-sixteenth. F in the centre, between B and G-. 
Point E from C, one-third of the distance that there is from 
BtoC. 

Waist measure, 30 inches. From G to H one-fourth of 
the breast measure. 

Back. — Make a line from point E, passing on the junc- 
tion of point F and front line ; increase from C to D of 
one-thirty-second of the seat measure. 

Spring measure, 30^ inches. Measure from C to H, 



then with the remainder of the seat measure make a sweep 
from D, and establish the bight of the back on it, to match 
the bight of the front. (See Fig. 9.) If the back is wider 
than one-fourth of the waist measure, make a V with the 
difference. 

The plain lines are for plain, straight pants, from which 
artists can make them according to fashion or taste, and 
change the seams by giving to one what is taken off the 
other. 

I give on the same figure the change from plain pants 
to close-fitting, which I am using with success. 

Front — 

Back 

Sewing the seams even at the top and bottom, and 
matching the notches, will give about three-eighths of arr 
inch of stretching to the back ; for the lower part, the 
front should be about three-quarters of an inch shorter, 
stretching it about the half, and drawing the back of the 
difference to form the calf. 

Fig. 10.— Shows the formation of the legs by pressing, 
which can be obtained from that cut without any trouble. 

Many cutters give considerable trouble to the hands, 
and charge them unjustly with not obtaining a result 
which they could not obtain themselves. 

Fig. 9. — For large abdomens, and can be obtained from 
measurement. If you have the adjustment measure from 
the coat, use it in the same manner, leaving the adjustment 
for the back, and placing the remainder of the pants waist 
measure, from H to the front, at the point where it goes 
outside the line. In order to make a large abdomen 
appear as small as possible, shape also the lower part out- 
side of the line, as on the figure and the crutch exceeding 
point C. If the front is too wide to satisfy your fancy, 
take some off and add it to the back. If you have not the 
coat measure, take an extra measure for the front, from 
the dot established same as for coat. 

NOTE.— It is of great importance to place the centre line 
parallel with the edge of the goods, front and back. 



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